quarta-feira, 18 de abril de 2007

Israel...praia, deserto, Jerusalem e uma barbeiragem

... continuação...


Chegamos em Israel com o sol nos dando as boas vindas! Maravilha sair daquele tempo cinza e frio da Europa... Depois de passar no Jader pra largar as malas, fomos almoçar numa cidade árabe (de árabes israelis) Kafr Qara, que fica do lado de Katzir. Comemos um shoarma (pra nós, seria como um xis), um pão com salada, carne de ovelha e fritas. Hoje em dia ele também é feito com frango ou porco. O Shay começou as sacanagens dele e me deu uma pimenta gigante pra moder dizendo que era um pimentão... tomei toda a bebida dele... ahahahahhaah!!!! 1x1.
Depois demos uma volta por ali e vimos como é uma cidade árabe... casarões de 3, 4 andares, em cada um mora uma geração da família (ou uma das esposas... ehehhe). E a maioria, sem reboco. Eles não terminam as casas pra não pagar imposto, mas, em compensação, as ruas ficam todas esburacadas, sem calçamento. Ah, e tem lixo por tudo, principalmente dentro dos pátios...isso é um hábito deles. Dá a sensação de estar no meio de uma vila.
Seguimos pro alto de Katzir e o Jader nos mostrou as redondezas. Vimos a ultima floresta de carvalho intacta de Israel. Ela esta assim desde a epoca dos reis...ja imaginou??!! linda!! uma floresta enorme, só de carvalhos...provavelmente o rei Salomao repousou na sombra de uma destas arvores. Andamos mais um pouco e paramos num lugar alto de onde dava para ver a maior cidade árabe de Israel, Um Al-Fahm. Enxergamos as torres das mesquitas e ouvimos o barulho que vinha lá de baixo: trânsito, risadas, conversas, construções, buzinas... Pra encerrar, fomos até a cerca que separa Afula, na Palestina, Israel. Esta cerca já causou (e ainda causa) polêmica, mas o fato é que ela ajudou a reduzir os atentados terroristas.
Fomos pra casa, eu fui dormir um pouco e o Shay foi tomar banho de jacuzi com o tio querido dele... eeeh vidão..
De lá, ele ficou ouvindo o canto que vinha das mesquitas de Kafr Qara (que fica embaixo da colina de Katzir). "Um canto monotonico e relaxante...como um lamento". De noite, as torres ganham luzes verdes.
Fizemos o Shabat em familia...um momento especial..., jantamos e fomos até Cesarea (adivinhem porque o nome..."césar, o imperador romano"), uma cidade portuária, bem pertinho da casa do Jader. Passeamos pela orla que está toda iluminada, vimos as ruínas, o mar azul, tão azul que dava vontade de se atirar! Mas estava um frio horrível. Cesarea se tornou a capital romana da provincia da Judeia em 6 a.C. Com o passar do tempo, ela tambem foi conquistada pelos impérios Bizantino, Mameluco e outros... Comemos um doce, uma torta de maça com grãos de café, passas, sorvete e calda de chocolate...uma maravilha....agora sim, estávamos prontos pra dormir!! eheheheheh




SÁBADO DE PRAIA E DE UM PEQUENO ACIDENTE

Missão churrasco. De manhã fomos até Zihron Ya'akov, uma cidadezinha perto de Katsir. Passeamos por uma rua cheia de artistas e lojinhas. Estava lotada! Lembrava um pouco o Brique num dia de domingo. Ela foi a primeira cidade com água encanada da região. Hora da sacanagem. O Shay, muito espertinho, pegou uma azeitona direto de uma oliveira e me deu pra comer... que boba...o troço intragavel...horrivel... era azedo ou amargo (o Shay diz que eu não sei a diferença entre os dois..eheheh)... a azeitona tem que passar por todo um processo antes de poder ser comida...2x1. Seguimos para um churrasco no sul de Israel (nós estávamos no comecinho da parte norte do pais e descemos pro sul - pode-se fazer a seguinte analogia...sair do sul da Amazonia e ir até Santa Catarina comer um churras -, em Israel levamos uma hora, uma hora e meia pra chegar. Cruzamos o país para comer um churras... isso só é possível lá...rs rs). De Zihron Ya'akov até o local onde iriamos comer, o Shay foi dirigindo para conhecer o carro porque durante a tarde, o tio iria emprestá-lo para passearmos. Tudo perfeito, com o Jader na carona.
Depois do almoço, fomos (Gabi, Shay, Ana e Lara) até uma praia do lado de Ashdod. Aproveitamos um pouco a tarde de sol, molhamos os pés no mediterrâneo e o Shay recomeçou as sacanagens. Desta vez, com as primas. Jogou as gurias do alto de uma duna. Lara e Ana ficaram cheias de areia, por tudo!! Tem o vídeo no You Tube, é só clicar no link 'nossos videos'. Mas teve volta, naturalmente...é a lei da ação e reação....ihihihihi... Na hora de ir embora, o Shay foi tirar o carro do estacionamento e não viu que tinha um pau enorme do lado da gente... baita arranhão na lateral da camionete e quase arrancou a porta fora. Foi por um triz e por um berro da Lara!!! Que nervoso, que suador!!! E agora??? 3x2.
Tivemos que parar no caminho pro Shay relaxar um pouco no meio de umas dunas que mais pareciam um pequeno deserto...Passamos por um laguinho...Depois paramos outros minutinhos num campo todo florido para ele relaxar mais um pouquinho e tentar achar a melhor forma de contar pro tio sobre o pequeno incidente. Antes de ir pra casa, passamos por Ashdod. Prédios enormes, modernos, um calçadão na beira da praia. Vimos o pôr-do-sol e um israeli veio dizer que adora o Brasil, principalmente uma guria chamada Adriana que ele conheceu no Skype. Ela mora no interior do Rio Grande do Sul e ele pretende ir visitá-la. Que mundinho!!!
Ah, pra encerrar o dia de hoje: depois da propaganda da Lara e da Ana, dizendo que o pai iria não iria gostar do carro dele amassado, o Jader jurou que não ficou de cara com o amassão. Ihihih! E o Shay se sentiu um pouco melhor.



O DIA PERFEITO


Acordamos cedinho, 7h da manhã, e fomos, Gabi, Shay e Jader, rumo ao sul de Israel pelo Vale do Rio Jordão. Pegamos a estrada que faz fronteira com a Jordânia. Na verdade esta estrada fica espremida entre a Jordânia e a Palestina. O único território israeli é a própria estrada e o seu acostamento. Nesta parte, não tem cerca separando Israel da Palestina. A estrada 90 é patrulhada pelo exército israeli, com barreiras ao longo de todo o percurso. Israel deve manter sob seu comando esta estrada por uma questão de segurança. Entregando para os palestinos, a Jordânia estaria praticamente dentro de Israel. Neste pequeno espaço de terra, acontecimentos históricos foram realizados, principalmente na época pós saída dos judeus do Egito e na condução destes na conquista da então Canaã. Hoje, o nosso destino final era Jerusalem!!!! O caminho foi uma mistura de emoção, aventura (pois passamos por várias cidades palestinas que ficam na beira da estrada), descobertas e encantamento. A paisagem é maravilhosa, do início ao fim. Morros floridos à direita e, à esquerda, um vale e ao fundo as montanhas da Jordânia. As cidades palestinas que vimos ficavam bem na beira da estrada e não tinham quase nenhuma infraestrutura. A maioria eram agricultores e viviam no meio do lixo. Entre essas cidades, alguns assentamentos judaicos, melhores organizados. Toda essa região é díficil, não só pelo risco maior de conflitos, mas também pelo clima e pela localização: na beira do deserto. A agricultura em Israel é superdifícil porque a terra é pura pedra. Imaginem no deserto.. é muito pior. Mas eles plantam e muito! Chegando perto do deserto, a paisagem vai mudando, os morros perdem suas flores e gramas e viram pura terra e pedra. Sai o colorido e entra os tons terrosos, pastéis. Subimos até uma fortificação militar que estava vazia. Bem no alto de uma montanha no deserto. Caminhamos um pouco e pudemos ver longe, um mar de morros. Algumas cavernas e uma ou outra oliveira no meio das rochas, por onde escorre a água da chuva. Um silêncio incrível, incrível! Uma paz absurda e uma vontade imensa de ficar ali, de sair andando, andando, andando...mas não dava.. não podíamos entrar muito pra dentro da Palestina.. O deserto nos desperta emoções fortes, é um lugar onde percebemos que não somos nada, somos apenas um grão de areia no meio do universo. Um lugar, onde sentimos a natureza no comando. É uma viagem interior. De descoberta. Lá do alto enxergamos também o Mar Morto e Jericó (na Palestina), uma das cidades mais antigas do mundo e a mais baixa, a 240 m abaixo do nível do mar. Foi em Jericó, no Monte da Tentação, onde o Diabo teria tentado Jesus, oferecendo-lhe todos os reinos do mundo. Jericó também era o limite até onde chegava o cheiro dos incensos que eram queimados nas festas judias em Jerusalem.


Ah, Jerusalém!! Nem sei o que falar desse lugar. Só estando lá e sentindo na pele pra entender....Mágica, intensa, viva, conturbada, forte, emocionante, uma cidade que carrega o peso de de 4 mil anos de história, repleta de lutas, conquistas, glórias, paixão, fé, religião e milagres divinos. E em meio a todo esse clima, a cidade se transformou, virou grande, moderna. Se tem um lugar único no mundo, é Jerusalem, onde o muito antigo se mistura com o muito moderno. É outra dimensão, outra vibração. Toda a cidade é branca, clara. Nenhum prédio ou casa pode ser construído de outra cor. Tem que ser com a pedra de Jerusalém. É lá também onde árabes e judeus convivem ainda mais intensamente. Nas ruas, vemos onde começa e termina cada uma das culturas. E onde elas se misturam. É algo muito complexo, um emaranhado, só sentindo...
Pela estrada que chegamos, pudemos ver de longe a Cidade Velha, onde tudo aconteceu. Que emoção!! De deixar a gente meio zonzo, mudo, abobado... Estacionamos o carro no bairro Armênio dentro do Muro que cerca a Cidade Velha e fomos caminhar. O Jader comprou um pão e um tempero para comermos... Chegamos na parte judaica, no Cardo, que era a rua principal do bairro judeu, onde estava o comércio. Ainda hoje, ele continua lá.. mas são lojinhas de souvenirs e artesanatos. Jerusalém foi destruída algumas vezes e as novas cidades foram sendo reconstruídas em cima dos escombros. É como andares. A cidade mais antiga está láááá embaixo, em cima dela ou no segundo andar foi construída a segunda, e assim por diante... Por isso, tem escavações por tudo. E todos os dias se descobre alguma coisa. A obra de construção do metro de Jerusalém volta e meia pára porque se acha algo histórico e é preciso chamar os arqueologistas. Sei não se esse metrô sai.... eheheheheh
Chegamos no Kotel, o Muro das Lamentações, o lugar mais sagrado do Judaísmo. Ele é o único vestígio do antigo templo de Herodes, erguido por Herodes, o Grande, no lugar do Templo de Jerusalém inicial. Foi destruído por Tito, em 70 d.C. Durante o reinado de Salomão, foi construído um grande templo para abrigar a Arca da Aliança, com as tábuas dos mandamentos de Deus. Antes da reconquista por parte de Israel, após a Guerra dos Seis Dias, em 1967, o local servia de depósito para incineração de lixo. Hoje, os religiosos judeus vão orar no Muro das Lamentações e depositar seus desejos por escrito. Ficamos ali um pouco, cada um do seu lado, emocionados...
Caminhamos até o mercado árabe. O Jader foi na frente e pediu pro Shay andar o tempo todo atrás de mim e nos avisou pra só perguntar preço se realmente temos a intenção de comprar. O Shay queria um tambor, esse aí que ele ta olhando na foto, perguntou preço mas não levou...Com o Jader foi tranquilo, falando em hebraico, ninguém nos passou pra trás...eheheh..e também não tive problemas.. para os padrões estéticos dos árabes eu não devo valer muitos camelos...já as gordinhas.. eheheh.. essas correm perigo. Uma hora passou uma turista 'bem servida' e eles ficaram bem loucos, saíram das suas bancas e ficaram olhando e falando entre si... e nós, rindo.
Deixamos a cidade velha e fomos até o centro de Jerusalem, andamos pela Ben Yehuda, uma avenida grande. Lá comemos o melhor hommos da cidade (pasta de grão de bico com outras misturas) num barzinho que mais parecia um boteco. Bem informal, todo mundo sentava junto nas mesas, uma confusão, uma gritaria, gente entrando e saindo, velhos, jovens, militares, advogados, um clima meio conturbado, mas era isso que tornava o lugar especial. Assim, são os israeli: diretos, rápidos, às vezes parecem um pouco mal educados - mas é o jeito apenas - , falam alto, te dão um conselho sem você pedir e sem te conhecer, te dão um sorriso e vão embora.
O Jader nos levou pra fazer a digestão.. caminhamos até uma parte que, antigamente, quando o Shay morava em Jerusalém, eles frequentavam juntos. O Jader com uns 20 anos mais ou menos e o Shay com uns 4... Uma galeria que era cheia de bares - hoje não existem mais por causa dos atentados, mas o local está sendo reaberto aos poucos, pois a situação está mais tranquila– e tinha um especial, onde o Jader parava pra tomar sua cervejinha e o Shay uma coca-cola. E ficavam os dois lá olhando as gurias.. eheheh. Depois de véios, os dois tiraram uma foto na frente do que restou do lugar para relembrar os tempos idos....
Por ali, o Shay finalmente achou um tambor e comprou... hoje ele ta tentando aprender como se toca... (a nossa vizinha já veio aqui em casa pedir para ele parar de tocar, um dia de noite..ahahah)


Terminamos o dia no shuk, o mercado 'público'. Várias bancas, muitos temperos, chás, aromas, sabores, pães, verduras e frutas... compramos 1kg de morangos por 5 shekels (1 shekel = 0,20 centavos de euros) e voltamos pra casa. Fim de tarde na estrada, com o sol se pondo e aquelas cidadezinhas históricas ao longe, em cima das colinas acendendo suas luzes... um clima de poesia no ar... inesquecível.



Amanhã tem mais...

226 comentários:

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LU K. disse...

nossa...q lugar encatandor...
legal teu blog!
continue postando sobre as viagens...
felicidades!
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Nossa realmente la deve ser muito magico..
quero muito ir para lá.., pois meu namorado é israelense.
Mas bate um pouco do medo ne? rsrs
muito legal seu blogger! =D

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